Prada show rejects political elite, as Dolce & Gabbana criticised for ‘50 shades of white’

Estimated reading time: 4 minutes

Overview of Prada’s Milan menswear collection

Backstage at Milan fashion week, Prada’s duo described the collection as uncomfortable not because it’s hard to wear, but because it mirrors a volatile moment. Disparate elements were placed in the same look—like a red sou’wester paired with a trench, or a yellow crew-neck jumper with a shirt cuff trailing from the sleeve—inviting readers to read the mood as much as the cut. The designers stressed that fashion can reflect the world, yet this line leans toward questioning rather than presenting a neat answer.

Prada’s stance on youth and masculinity

Raf Simons argued for a more youthful masculinity, saying designers today must ask questions every day. “We don’t want the American corporate kind of masculine power,” he explained, positioning the tailoring as a deliberate break from traditional power imagery. The deconstructed cuffs and risky proportions were cited as a way to reject the image of the political elite and to invite new definitions of strength and individuality in menswear.

Dolce & Gabbana’s all-white casting controversy

Dolce & Gabbana closed the week with a show titled The Portrait of Man that appeared to feature an entirely white cast. Critics on Instagram described it as “50 shades of white”, sparking debate about representation and the ethics of color in fashion. The brand has historically found itself at the center of race-related controversy—from 2012 earrings resembling Blackamoor figures to 2016’s slave sandal naming and 2018 adverts that drew accusations of cultural insensitivity. In a widely reported incident, Stefano Gabbana allegedly messaged a critic with a crude remark about China, which the brand attributed to a hack. The episode underscores how fashion’s relationship with politics can become a flashpoint for race and identity.

Historical context of fashion and race controversies

The piece notes that this isn’t the first time the industry has faced such debates. In June, Prada was called out for footwear inspired by Kolhapuri sandals—traditional Indian footwear. Prada’s head of corporate responsibility, Lorenzo Bertelli, acknowledged the heritage and said a February limited-edition collection would be released in collaboration with artisans from Maharashtra and Karnataka, signaling a shift toward respectful, craft-led collaborations rather than mere quotation of cultural motifs.

Kolhapuri sandals and artisan collaboration

The February line will be manufactured in India in partnership with regional artisans, highlighting a commitment to long-standing craft. An amendment to coverage clarified that the plan centers on collaborations with Indian artisans, a nuance readers rightly sought to understand after earlier reporting.

Note on the amendment to the coverage

The Guardian amended the article on 19 January 2026 to reflect Prada’s collaboration with Indian artisans rather than a generic homage, aligning coverage with the brand’s stated program.

Conclusion: fashion’s political turn is complicated but undeniable

Prada’s uncomfortable collection and Dolce & Gabbana’s casting controversy illustrate how fashion now operates at the intersection of art, power, and representation. Designers provoke, critics press for accountability, and readers are invited to weigh symbolism against sensationalism. The season favors questions over certainties, reminding us that what we wear is increasingly a statement about the world we inhabit.

Engagement: If you’re exploring fashion and politics, consider related coverage like Trump and AI help inspire a Prada collection for challenging times or Prada commuter chic at Milan men’s fashion week. You might also want practical guides on evaluating campaigns for bias and representation.